Archive for May, 2010

Costa Rica Cloud Forest

The morning after our super relaxation evening at the hot springs we were off bright and early for the jeep-boat-jeep ride from Arenal to Monteverde.  Because of Lake Arenal this was the quickest way to get between these two locations.  The road to Monteverde was pretty rough so I am glad we minimized the time spent bouncing up and down in a shock-less van.

Turns out the jeep-boat-jeep tour did not involve any jeeps.  So disappointing!  It did involve the same tourist vans that were everywhere else.  It was a very rainy and gray morning so no volcano view but it was still a nice ride.


I want my vacation home on one of these green hills.

We arrived at the Hotel Belmar in Monteverde around 11:30am and checked out the view while we waited for our room to be ready.  That little gazebo was a jacuzzi which Frenchie refused to go in.  It turns out that was a good choice because we later saw the bartender sneaking in the back door with a scorpion he had found in the jacuzzi!!

The room was super cool and had a beautiful view itself.  I asked for the cheapest room but they upgraded us to the main chalet because there were so few guests.  This hotel had the lowest concentration of Americans, probably because it had more of a European feel and one of the employees was French.


After we were settled in we asked the front desk how far it was to the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve.  She said it was 3 kilometers away and about a 45 minute walk.  It was a lot cooler in the mountains and at that point it was not raining so we decided to hoof it.  There was a guided nature walk starting at 1:30 and since we were heading  off around 12:15 we thought we had tons of time.  I was hungry and getting cranky so about 10 minutes down the road we hit a hippy section with art galleries, a food coop and a cafe called Stella’s Cafe.  I had read about this one in the guide so we decided to check it out.  Stella’s had some cool savory and sweet pastries which may or may have been traditional but were yummy!  As we were paying, we asked the cafe man how far of a walk to the cloud forest.  He said it was 3 kilometers but if we see a school bus going up the road we could flag it down and jump on.

It was a little suspicious that it was 3 kilometers from the hotel and from this cafe when the hotel and cafe were about 1 kilometer apart, but we did not have many options at that point.  So we were off again, with about a half an hour to make the nature walk.  We were walking quickly and soon it began to rain. After 20 minutes we saw some signs.  ”Monteverde Cloud Forest, 3 kilometers.”  Ahh!  We were in a vortex of 3 kilometers!  Somehow it also did not occur to us that the entire “3K” would be uphill because we were going to a CLOUD  forest.    Let’s just say we burned off those pastries that day!

We arrived super soaked and too late for the nature walk but as we were beginning to find out you could get yourself a guide anywhere for anything at anytime as long as you paid them enough so Juan Carlos was called to give us our personal tour.  As soon as we met he tried to lower our expectations and kept saying that the forest was so dense we probably would not see anything.  I already did not like him.

He immediately showed us a Quetzal nest and we both the male and the female which was very cool.

We also saw some monkeys and lots of cool looking trees.

We also found these dorks below.  I am going to blame Juan Carlos for this pathetic picture.  We really were having fun even though it looks like we would rather be jumping off that viewpoint…

On our way out of the forest we missed the bus again and were not too excited about walking back down the hill in the dark.  Luckily, an awesome Californian father and daughter duo overheard our problem and offered us a ride back to the hotel!  See, Americans can be nice.

Costa Rica – post zip line

After zipping through the forest we asked the driver to take us into La Fortuna instead of bumping back up the road.  We decided to have lunch at a Soda, which is a small Costa Rican restaurant with typical food.  Since we were in a tourist town there was still a cheeseburger on the menu but the chicken special with a mora (blackberry) juice was quite delicious.  We were not exactly sure what to do next but the Fodor’s guide suggested the La Fortuna waterfall as a top “pick.”  One of the tour sellers told us we had three options to get there, ride a horse, take a taxi or walk.  It was about 5 kilometers he said.  Frenchie told everybody who asked that I do not like horses which is totally not true!  I actually love all animals (except that stupid scorpion) but I prefer to just look at horses and not ride on them.  Plus a lot of the horses there looked really unhealthy and I just thought it would be sad.

Thank goodness we decided to go with the taxi because it was hot and 5 K was probably not really 5K and we saw one woman who decided to walk and she looked hot and pissed.

Once we got to the park it was about a 10 minute walk down a lot of stairs to see the waterfall.  The guide said swimming was an option once we got down there but I didn’t feel like changing into my swimsuit in the middle of the jungle so we just waded around.  It was very relaxing and beautiful and besides all the tarzan-like trees around, kind of reminded me of Oregon creeks and brought back lots of memories of Lee Falls.  Don’t worry, I did not jump off this one.

Fish!
After hoofing it back up to the park entrance we decided to share a taxi with a super sweet Atlantian (?) couple.  We then wandered around La Fortuna until it was time to go to the most awesome hot springs ever.

I did not take any pictures of the hot springs but here is the rundown.

  • Amazing natural mineral hot springs with waterfalls you can sit under.
  • A swim up bar with the worlds worst nachos (I am pretty sure about this)
  • Amazing cooler pools with a light rain falling and stars out.
  • Some douche stealing one of our towels which had a $20 deposit and me sweet talking the towel dude into a free towel.
  • Dipping into a hidden pool in the back of the garden and discovering a couple gettin’ it on and promptly returning to the more well-lit area of the garden.

Just to make you even more jealous, here is the internet’s pictures of this beautiful place.

I could have spent all day here, although during the day it might have been a little warm…

Costa Rica – la segunda parte

The next morning we tried out the breakfast buffet and argued with the front desk some more.  Breakfast buffet was awesome, arguing was not.  One of the reasons I wanted to go to Arenal was to chill out in the hot springs.  I was told that one of the hot springs was cheap and like a nightclub and the other was more expensive but a little classier.  Being such a classy girl myself I knew I needed to go to the nicer hot springs but the only information provided was about the cheap one!  I asked the front desk and they tried to sell us tickets to the cheap one immediately and told us the other one was not good.  We also expressed interest in the Arenal Hanging Bridges and the guy told us it was lame and that we should do the zip line instead.  I did want to do the zip line at some point but I was hoping to wait until we were in the cloud forest in Monteverde.  Well, because the zip line tour included transportation we went for that.

We were picked up by some guys in an old van and bumbled down the dirt road again.  I was not scared until I saw the first platform.  Then I had to climb the platform.  Oh.  Crap.

It was fun.  I think.  Unfortunately Frenchie erased some of the hilarious videos taken by the zip line dude.  Let’s just say he got the start and stop buttons mixed up.

Here is one great video (which may or may not work) of Frenchie on the tarzan swing.  Despite being heckled by the zip line dude I resisted the tarzan swing.  Too freakin’ scary.

Tarzan

Costa Rica, Part Uno

I should start with a post about our trip to Montauk because I totally skipped that, but instead I need to share our Costa Rica trip while it is still fresh in my memory.  Also, the entire time I was there I kept making comments to myself about what I would recommend to the next person I know going to Costa Rica and thinking I should write them down.  I don’t actually know anybody else going and I have no reason to believe they would ask for my advice, but here it is anyway.

We arrived late Saturday night and besides Frenchie ditching me in the San Jose airport immediately, with no problems.   Once we finally located each other in the humongous customs line, we were off to our first hotel.  Note:  I love hotels and was super excited to get to pick out all 5 of the different hotels we stayed in for our trip.   Scam numero uno – the first hotel booked a driver from the hotel to pick us up.  He stood with a sign that said “Emily Jarel” and waited for us.  Pretty awesome.  It was $15 while a taxi would have been about $7.  Oops.  Well, he was a really nice guy and at least we knew he was taking us to the right place.

The hotel, Hotel La Rosa De Americana, was in a locked compound (very comforting) and had a cool garden with mango and manga trees.  Mangas are the female mango and they are bigger.  The hotel was not in San Jose but in Costa Rica’s second largest city Alajuela.  The airport is in Alajuela so it was super convenient.

This was our room.  A queen bed, two bunkbeds and another single bed.  We could have fit the driver and his whole family in there with us!  We stayed here for a total of 10 hours but it was nice enough.  We each had an Imperial (Costa Rican beer) and went to bed, excited about what we would find in the morning.
In the morning we woke up around 5:30 to sounds of the hotel’s other guests.  This was our first clue that everything in Costa Rica happens really freakin’ early.  After trying to sleep a little more we finally got up and wandered around a bit.

Mango tree!!!

We loitered outside the reception for breakfast and most importantly, coffee!   The fruit was amazing as expected and we also had cereal, juice and toast.

Before we left I had done some research about how to get around the country most efficiently.  It seemed like people either rented a car or took a bus.  I briefly considered just taking the local bus but quickly decided to shell out the extra cash for a shuttle service called Interbus.  Interbus was great.  Their website did not work but I just emailed them the day before we left and everything was taken care of.  It was a little confusing because the first shuttle would not pick us up at the hotel.  We had to get to this random restaurant near the airport.  But the hotel called us a taxi and it was not a problem.  The taxi driver was nice, Frenchie practiced his Spanish, and we made it to the restaurant in no time.  As soon as we pulled into the restaurant the bus pulled in and loaded us up.  Very efficient!

The bus took us from Alajuela to Arenal in about 3 hours.  We stopped along to way to use the banos and look at cheap souvenirs.  

This ride was when I first noticed that there are little dogs everywhere!

Our second and third nights we decided to stay at the Arenal Observatory Lodge.  Arenal is an active volcano and the lodge is as close as you can get.  A little scary but very cool.  When we arrived we could see most of the volcano and a view of Lake Arenal.  We had a beautiful lunch and planned out the next couple days.  Of course I did not take any pictures at that point because I figured we would be seeing it for the next couple days.  Big mistake.

The hotel gave us a list of “activities” when we arrived.  We decided to try out to the night lava walk for the first day.  We killed some time until then by taking a short hike through the forest to a waterfall.

It was a hot walk, but worth it.  On our way back we heard some rumbling that we both thought were horses.  Turns out it was that active volcano.  Um, a little scary.

After being asked for the 5th time if we had a rental car we realized that we really should have had a rental car.  Oops.  The road to the lodge was bumpy and long to say the least so there was no way we could walk anywhere.  Almost every activity we could have chosen would have been the price of the activity plus $25 each way for a taxi.  Uggg.  I planned this whole trip and was pretty sure we would not need a car.  I really did not want to rent a car because it does not count as a vacation if I have to drive in a car with Frenchie.  Driving and him do not get along.  Therefore the Interbus seemed like the perfect solution!  Until we were stuck on an active volcano.

We spoke with Eduardo, the guide, ahead of time to decide if it was worth the money.  He showed us some pictures of lava rocks and said we would walk around these rocks and we would point out some wildlife if he saw it.  $25 each.  Well, it sounded pretty lame but without a car our options were limited and this tour said “transportation included.”  Turns out Eduardo’s idea of transportation included meant that he would force the people with cars to take the people without cars, including himself.   Luckily we were paired up with an awesome Scottish couple, Rod and Nikki.

The night walk was not quite as lame as we expected.  Eduardo stopped along the road a few times to point out a toucan and some monkeys (acting like he found them himself but I am pretty sure he saw them on the way up the road).  Then we walked in the lava rocks and he told us the story of the volcano which basically went like this, “In 1968 nobody in the villages knew that the mountain was active.  Cold mountain.  There were no scientists around to tell them it was a volcano.  Then, July 29, 1968 they heard a rumble.  Villagers thought it was an airplane but it was not.  It was the volcano.  Bunch of people died from rocks spewing out of the mountain (which he demonstrated by picking up a rock and throwing it to the ground).  5 years later the scientists came. Before that, villagers thought was a cold mountain.”

He told this exact story about 5 times as we hiked up the hill.

Eduardo is the one in the cool vest.

As we were getting ready to go back down the hill he asked if anybody had any questions.  Not even kidding, one woman asked, “So, before it erupted they had no idea it was a volcano?”  Eduardo looks at her with a straight face and says, “nope, they thought it was a cold mountain.  There were no scientists.”  It took everything I had not to burst out laughing.

When we arrived at the bottom of the hill it was getting dark and Eduardo told us he knew where to find some cool frogs.  So we followed him down the road a bit to a swamp next to some dude’s house.  We wandered through the brush (which was probably full of snakes) and he pulled out this guy.

Such a cool frog!  Then we found another guy.

Pretty bad picture, but it was hard with the swarm of people trying to get the picture at once and the frog hopping around.

Our room at the lodge was the cheapest room they had, called La Casona.  It was a large building with five rooms and two shared bathrooms.  

It totally reminded me of girl scout camp. We still had an awesome view with the volcano in one window and the lake from the other.

Still, I forgot to take any pictures of the volcano.

As we were getting ready to go to dinner Frenchie stepped right on a scorpion!!  He screamed in pain and expletives while I search for the f*cker.  At first we were not sure it was a scorpion so I killed some other innocent bug but then we saw the dude and Frenchie squashed him and put him in a baggie for evidence in case his foot fell off.  We brought the dead guy to the hotel staff and they basically made fun of us for freaking out told him he would be ok.  The staff at the lodge’s front desk were kind of jerks.

After all that excitement we were off to dinner.

On the way back up to the hotel we discussed dinner plans with Rod and Nikki.  They were planning to go into La Fortuna, the closest town, because the food at the hotel was pretty bad.  Luckily they invited us as well!  We ended up going to a pizza place which seemed like an odd choice, but it was pretty good.  They had already been in Costa Rica for 2 weeks so I guess they were getting tired of the Tipical food.  We had just arrived so it was a little disappointing to have pizza but at least we did not have to eat at the hotel again and we met some cool people!

To be continued…